Tuesday, April 22, 2008

what does being a jeweler mean?

So, relating back to things that have been bouncing around in my head, as well as the grad meeting Monday where we talked about how to define the field and where we think we fall in it, I'm feeling a bit at sea about where I stand and what I want to be...
I used to believe very firmly in the stance of I must make my designs. When I first started doing the production work and sent things out to be cast, that was hard for me. I felt like I was betraying some standard or failing some unspoken test. That attitude came from my undergrad education. Hand work was god. The flexshaft (or anything powered) was viewed as lesser- exception being the kilns. The flexshaft was only to be used when you could not do something by hand. And by could not, I mean the tool doesn't exist to get the task done. We never learned to sandblast, polish, or tumble, as those involved machines. So knowing this, it's not a stretch to see how the idea of you personally not being the one to make a piece is abhorrent to that mindset.
From doing production, I still feel/felt like I needed to be the one doing the bulk of the work- otherwise it seemed unfair? to be selling it as my work. However, I did realize that unless I could clone myself, something had to change. So I began to buy some stone setting and findings, as well as send everything out for casting. If I had continued with the shows, I probably would've looked into an intern to help with casting cleanup. But I still clung to certain things- making/injecting my own waxes for one... although I did relax that somewhat in the last couple of years.
Now, where am I? I thought that coming back to school would drive me further towards working on hand-laboured one-of-a-kind work. Reinstate a lot if that old dogma. It hasn't. I'm swinging further in the other direction. I now think I would like to design for some firms- or sell some of my designs to be produced. I'm looking at the new technologies and thinking that I'm perfectly fine with outsourcing that part. I'm thinking that so much of my production work is too labor-intensive for what it is. I need to streamline that. I'm also thinking that returning to the shows is something that I'm not particularly interested in. I don't think it is a viable financial decision. I want to continue to make, but I'm thinking more broadly about that term. I'm much more interested in following the European designer path, than anything I've seen here. In a perfect world, I'd like to work with companies to produce some of my designs, and continue to make others myself. I think what I would keep making would be jewelry....
This is not to say that I don't want to make things. I do. Very much. It is a part of who I am, but I'm not sure that I will be able to call myself a jeweler in a couple years. And I'm unsure how I feel about that. Is there a word I'd prefer? Am I turning my back on a large part of me if I don't use the word jeweler? I don't know. I do know that this is a big change in my outlook of where I'm heading. And I don't feel like I have a road map for this trip.....

4 comments:

Liz Steiner said...

None of us do. The best we got is a working diagram. For me, I think it's about intuition, and what feels right. Damn what anybody else thinks.

amyk said...

hi jenn-i really appreciate your thoughts, specifically about the hand vs. the machine. i definately have some some of those same ideas from the way I was raised in metals-everything that can be done by hand should be. I'm starting to change my opinions about the subject, the right tools for some work may not be hand tools it may be any number of technolical processes instead-and thats fine, its just working smart. its just using the right tool for the job. i have thought about how the piece i'm working on now would be different had i had it milled which was originally suggested to me. i think that process would work but i'm really glad i didn't do that this time even though it sort of did become a death march for me. Using other processes than hand building really are interesting to me where they previously weren't so much.

Jangrrrrl said...

great articulation, Jenn. Very honest and sincere. "There's something happenin' here, what it is ain't exactly clear". I liken the place that our field is at to a fin de siecle. How exciting! You all can emerge on top of the wave or at least riding the right wave! Most of you know I work out somewhat religiously (I guess all religion isn't bad)....being in good physical shape is a metaphor for many things in life. Pushing yourself to do one more push up, run 5 more minutes, strengthen your entire body (and while you are doing it, your mind also gets stronger)prepares you for what comes your way....strengthen your proverbial cores, practice your bob-and-weave and keep your finger on the pulses, listen to wise people...... Liz, go see Design of the Elastic Mind!!!

Anonymous said...

Hands are just a way to to produce what your mind sees. If a laser cutter or a milling machine or a vacuum caster can do that, then what of it? I'm just waiting for someone to develop a "Mind-Miller" which produces forms based on mental images. I would also settle for the manufacturing equivalent of a Segway that picks up subtle gestures. Then maybe my poor hands can rest. They're an overused production tool.

P.S. My only real response to what you wrote is "amen."